Medieval palaces

MAY 4—Imagine the ruins of fantastic medieval castles in the highlands of northern Ethiopia. Better yet, visit them. We did. Built 500 years ago, the architectural style is a unique blend of Portuguese, Egyptian and Indian influences. It was the height of luxurious living in 16th century Ethiopia.

King Faisal built the original palace. He chose Gondar as his capital after Ethiopian control was restored in a region previously overrun by Muslim armies. His father had invited the Portuguese to help oust the Muslim invaders. The Portuguese contingent came from Goa in India, bringing Indians along with them. Christopher da Gama, Vasco da Gama’s brother, was killed in one of the battles, but the Muslims were ultimately defeated.

This Christian success, however, created another crisis. Next on the Portuguese agenda was to convert the Ethiopian Orthodox to Roman Catholicism. The local populace fiercely resisted this. Eventually, Faisal assumed the reins of power, kicked out the foreigners and established his kingdom on a hill.

Succeeding kings built more palaces within the same compound, allowing the extended family of the previous king to stay in their homes. Today the palaces lie in ruins, but they remain magnificent.