Conflict central: Carmel and Megiddo

MAY 29—Mount Carmel and the commands a panoramic view of the Jezrael Valley. Since time immemorial this broad fertile plain has served as a pathway connecting Egypt to Assyria and hence to Mesopotamia. It’s been a great corridor of trade and, alas, the footpath of armies.

It’s been a scene of battle between local tribes and great armies of empires. It’s also witnessed the struggle of gods, none more memorable than the conflict pitting 850 prophets of Baal and Asherah against Elijah, prophet of YHWH, the God of Abraham, Isaac and Jacob.

YHWH triumphs in the exciting showdown and the false prophets are put to the sword.

Further down the valley a fortress at a place called Megiddo once guarded a narrow pass. It is the crossroads of the crossroads. Today it is the site of a fascinating archeological dig, which features no less than 26 different layers of development. Here one can see a stairway whose stones were laid about the time of King Ahab. Elijah may have stepped on them

Elsewhere in the site are the remains of a gate set in place during the time of King Solomon. And there we walked 180 steps down into a remarkable shaft cut through solid bedrock to ensure a steady water supply.

Megiddo stood at a strategic crossroads. Countless battles have been fought in its shadow, and many believe there will another.

In Hebrew, the name is Har Megiddo, meaning Hill of Megiddo. Har Megiddo is also known as Armageddon, to which Christian apocalyptic literature refers as the scene of the final cosmic conflict.